FX Pichler Loibner Berg Riesling Smaragd 2007
FX Pichler
This is one of the steepest and most austere primitive-rock sites encountered in Loiben. The Loibner Berg, Wachau’s largest coherent single vineyard, is fully exposed to the south and accordingly warm. The wines derived from this site are shaped by the unique composition of this first-class soil, which imparts longevity to them. Here, opulent, intense and yet subtle wines develop – Riesling showing a fruity texture (peach, apricot).
Wine Advocate
If I imagine myself as Pichler’s 2007 Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg waiting in the wings after the Riesling Steinertal’s performance, I think I would have been completely deflated. Thankfully, such anthropomorphism is foolish, and this wine acquits itself with aplomb. Linden flower, melon, mint, and honey in a gorgeous bouquet set the tone for a cool, soothing, creamily-textured yet succulently juicy, long-line palate display. Here is one of the Wachau wines that takes off – indeed, virtually detonates – the moment you have swallowed (or spit), with bitter coffee, crushed stone, white pepper, lemon zest, peach kernel bitterness, and high-toned herbal essences practically searing in their intensity. This should remain sensational for the better part of a decade.
Score: 96.
—David Schildknecht,
February
2009.
Wine Spectator
Rich, decadently fruity and very ripe, with a deep well of baked peach, glazed apricot and Bosc pear flavors. The smoky, spice-filled finish features notes of golden raisin and cream. Drink now through 2015.
Score: 93.
—Kim Marcus,
December
15,
2008.
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